Cioppino

Chef Greg Alauzen, who formerly helmed Steelhead Grill and Eleven, is back at Cioppino, near the new Cork Factory Lofts at 23rd and Railroad in the Strip District. We were invited to their soft opening on Wednesday, joined by Diane (girlfriend of the GM, Bob) and our friend Keri. It opens to the public tonight.

GM Bob Flood greets Susan

The restaurant features two bars. Their "cigar bar," a ridiculously out-of-fashion concept, cleverly gives cigarette smokers a place other than outside to go to light up. The cigar bar has a few tables (though why one would like to eat in a smoke-filled room eludes me) and a couple of leather couches, and a small bar for perhaps 6 or 8.

The main bar seats a couple of dozen . Behind a half-wall a long banquette and tables seat perhaps 3 dozen more. There appears to space for a small outdoor patio, but it was bereft of tables and chairs.

The main dining room apears to host about 80. A smaller dining room can be closed off for private parties or pharmaceutical rep dinners, with flat screens on the walls for presentations to wealthy doctors and/or their staffs on the benefits of the latest seratonin blockers.

The design is staid and a little clubby. It is not over-the-top ambitious, like Eleven, and the food overall reflects this. The food is very good, carefully assembled, though (with a couple of exceptions) not earth-shattering. However, the whole place seems to have been constructed in order not to challenge tastebuds, and certainly not to offend. It is comfortable, and I predict it will be embraced.

Susan's signature cioppino featured two large prawns, clams and mussels, a scallop, two pieces of firm white fish, and a langoustine tail. A whiff of the grill rose from the toasted bread, and the rich, fennel-infused soup-- clearly the result of much cooking down of fish bits and aromatics, in the manner of bouillabaise (rather than a standard catch-as-catch-can traditional cioppino)-- was poured tableside over the fish (martinis and mocktinis were also poured tableside from small glass pitchers, which added nothing to the drink-- in fact, this contributes to their warming). I predict tableside pouring will go the way of the Dodo soon.

After a week of vegetables, I opted for the restaurant's other claim: steak. I had a large porterhouse, grilled perfectly mid-rare. It was very good, all agreed, probably prime (I should have asked), and Susan loved the sandwich it made the next day. Diane's grilled salmon came with a fresh corn and tomato broth, and Keri's grilled rare tuna was, refreshinly, in one piece instead of being sliced and fanned out across something.

Starters were hit and miss. The winner was the sliced fluke, raw with EVO and lemon (though it could have used more acid). I was happy to see frisee on the menu with bacon and goat cheese dressing. I wonder if he'd do one for me with a poached egg instead of the cheese? Anyway, it was strong and salty and I loved it. Pepper was not offered, which was fine; the salads were well-seasoned.

Desserts were a reasonable size, and perhaps the weak point of the meal (though in their defense I don't have a particularly sweet tooth, unless there are Florentines or good ice cream involved).

The service erred on the side of trying to be helpful. A drink order, despite being written down, was mixed up, but my Peroni, instead of my negroni, was fine. Susan was salivating at the thought of the lamb chops, though it wasn't until we ordered them that we were told that they were off the menu that night-- a rather large oversight. We enjoyed a bottle of Ponzi pinot noir, which was quite round and balanced. I was surprised when we got our bill to see my glass of Remy XO cost $35. I mean, it's only $110 a bottle.... bit of gouging there, I think.

I think next time I go I'll sit in the bar and try some more appetizers, or perhaps, as at Eleven, they'll have a "tavern" menu for the bar.

Cioppino offers a pleasant view of downtown-- from the ground up, like at another good steakhouse, Pittsburgh Rare. With Greg involved, they're certain to tighten up and cross all t's and dot all i's. If they'd introduce a couple of more unique dishes, I'd appreciate it, but even so it's a good, clean crisp restaurant with really nothing at all to complain about (unless it's $35 for a glass of cognac).