Here's a quick and easy lunch:
Boil 1 egg*
Open bag of arugula
Open can (that's "tin" to you, Lorraine) smoked trout
Toss bowl of arugula with enough vinagraitte to moisten leaves.
Add some smoked trout.
Plate. Decorate with slices of boiled egg. Eat.
* simplest way to boil an egg: pierce "fat" end of egg with tip of knife. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil. When boiling, turn off heat, cover and let sit for 10 minutes. Drain and place egg in cold water to cool. When cool, roll egg to crack shell, then peel under cold running water.
Thursday
Saturday
Leftover Mussels
Mussels for lunch today.
Saute chopped shallot and garlic in oil, butter or duck fat. Add mussels. Add a glass of wine and some chopped parsley and lemon rind. Add a handful of spinach and season with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for a couple of minutes.
Add a couple of tablespoons of butter to the sauce and swirl to melt.
Serve with buttered toast or baguette to soak up the juice.
Saute chopped shallot and garlic in oil, butter or duck fat. Add mussels. Add a glass of wine and some chopped parsley and lemon rind. Add a handful of spinach and season with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for a couple of minutes.
Add a couple of tablespoons of butter to the sauce and swirl to melt.
Serve with buttered toast or baguette to soak up the juice.
Sea bass with green curry and mussels
We had the good fortune of hosting our friends Kitty and John (with little Fiona in tow) and Kyle and Daniel last night for dinner. A funnier foursome I can't imagine. Kitty and John have hosted us for many splendid dinners- they're both inventive cooks who make delicious meals. Kyle and Daniel hosted us and Susan's mom for a ridiculously good Thanksgiving meal, punctuated at times by their parrot's loud screeches. They also have two dogs and two rats. Kyle is an elephant handler at the zoo and his love of animals is legendary.
I first thought of doing a seafood mixed grill, but backed off as it seemed fussy and would keep me prepping most of the day.
After I suggested fish with curry sauce, Susan suggested I do goi an for a first course, substituting duck confit (which I'd made a day earlier) for the chicken. Presto: a southeast Asian themed meal.
Sea Bass with Green Curry and Mussels
In a wok, saute some chopped carrots for a minute; add some sauteed chopped shallots for another minute; finally add some grated, shredded or chopped ginger and finely chopped garlic.
Add to this a spice mix of cumin, smoked paprika, turmeric, and cardamom powder (I buy the seeds-- not the pods-- and crush a dozen or so with a mortar and pestle). Add a teaspoon of green curry paste (or substitute red, which is much milder) and sautee an additional 30 seconds.
Add to this a pint of fish stock (or veg, or chicken) and cook down for a few minutes over high heat. Season with salt and pepper.
Add scrubbed mussels to pot and allow them to cook for a few minutes.
Add half a can of coconut milk (the creamy bit from the top), and, just prior to serving, a couple of tablespoons of some chopped cilantro and thai basil, maybe a bit of mint if it's on hand.
For the fish, heat a pan and oil liberally and add a hunk of butter and melt til it foams. Add seasons fish steaks: any firm white fish would work well. Sear well for 2-5 minutes on one side (depending on thickness of fish), then turn the fish and place the pan in a hot oven for 5-10 minutes, until just cooked through.
Mound some jasmine rice on a plate, placing fish on top. Place 3 mussels around each piece of fish, then drizzle curry sauce around.
Top fish with a "salad" of chopped herbs (I used parsley, cilantro, thai basil, mint, green onion) you've tossed with grated lemon and lime rind, a little lemon and lime juice, olive oil and sesame oil.
---
I bought my fish at Pittsburgh Fish Market in the Strip District. They were filleting a large striped bass and gave me not just the carcass but the roe as well.
I made stock from the carcass that produced enough for the evening's meal with leftovers for soup. After it cooled, I also picked 6 oz. of meat from the carcass.
I froze the roe. Chef Derek of Eleven suggests treating it like Shad roe: poach gently, dry, then saute, spreading the cooked roe on toast with lemon.
I first thought of doing a seafood mixed grill, but backed off as it seemed fussy and would keep me prepping most of the day.
After I suggested fish with curry sauce, Susan suggested I do goi an for a first course, substituting duck confit (which I'd made a day earlier) for the chicken. Presto: a southeast Asian themed meal.
Sea Bass with Green Curry and Mussels
In a wok, saute some chopped carrots for a minute; add some sauteed chopped shallots for another minute; finally add some grated, shredded or chopped ginger and finely chopped garlic.
Add to this a spice mix of cumin, smoked paprika, turmeric, and cardamom powder (I buy the seeds-- not the pods-- and crush a dozen or so with a mortar and pestle). Add a teaspoon of green curry paste (or substitute red, which is much milder) and sautee an additional 30 seconds.
Add to this a pint of fish stock (or veg, or chicken) and cook down for a few minutes over high heat. Season with salt and pepper.
Add scrubbed mussels to pot and allow them to cook for a few minutes.
Add half a can of coconut milk (the creamy bit from the top), and, just prior to serving, a couple of tablespoons of some chopped cilantro and thai basil, maybe a bit of mint if it's on hand.
For the fish, heat a pan and oil liberally and add a hunk of butter and melt til it foams. Add seasons fish steaks: any firm white fish would work well. Sear well for 2-5 minutes on one side (depending on thickness of fish), then turn the fish and place the pan in a hot oven for 5-10 minutes, until just cooked through.
Mound some jasmine rice on a plate, placing fish on top. Place 3 mussels around each piece of fish, then drizzle curry sauce around.
Top fish with a "salad" of chopped herbs (I used parsley, cilantro, thai basil, mint, green onion) you've tossed with grated lemon and lime rind, a little lemon and lime juice, olive oil and sesame oil.
---
I bought my fish at Pittsburgh Fish Market in the Strip District. They were filleting a large striped bass and gave me not just the carcass but the roe as well.
I made stock from the carcass that produced enough for the evening's meal with leftovers for soup. After it cooled, I also picked 6 oz. of meat from the carcass.
I froze the roe. Chef Derek of Eleven suggests treating it like Shad roe: poach gently, dry, then saute, spreading the cooked roe on toast with lemon.
Wednesday
Foie Gras Dinner
I wish I could say I cooked this meal, but all I did were a few humble (if crucial) tasks assisting the chef. Here's what we ate at Rod and Donna's house on Sunday:
Toasted brioche w/ marmalade and foie gras mousse:
Warm crispy duck and foie rillette (too busy eating to photograph) nuggets
Shaved Foie sandwiches on foie gras scone with membrillo and apple
Mini foie gras raviolis, chestnut pasta, duck jus with very carefully plucked thyme leaves:
Foie sliders on brioche buns (Get in my belly! Where's the camera? Shit, too late.)
Torchon of foie gras with candied beets, aged sherry vinegar, pomegranites, and vanilla (WAY too busy eating to photograph)
Seared Slab of foie, with pearl onions, carefully sliced apricots, endives, crystallized sage and Vin santo (had to pause the eating a little, got a good shot of this one).

Foie Stuffed PA chicken with truffled chicken noodle broth (here in their raw form; you can see the slabs of foie under the skin):
Pan perdu, foie ice cream, maple gastrique and very carefully sectioned blood orange

Rod and Donna sure are good cooks, but even better friends.
Toasted brioche w/ marmalade and foie gras mousse:
Warm crispy duck and foie rillette (too busy eating to photograph) nuggets
Shaved Foie sandwiches on foie gras scone with membrillo and apple
Mini foie gras raviolis, chestnut pasta, duck jus with very carefully plucked thyme leaves:
Foie sliders on brioche buns (Get in my belly! Where's the camera? Shit, too late.)
Torchon of foie gras with candied beets, aged sherry vinegar, pomegranites, and vanilla (WAY too busy eating to photograph)
Seared Slab of foie, with pearl onions, carefully sliced apricots, endives, crystallized sage and Vin santo (had to pause the eating a little, got a good shot of this one).
Foie Stuffed PA chicken with truffled chicken noodle broth (here in their raw form; you can see the slabs of foie under the skin):
Pan perdu, foie ice cream, maple gastrique and very carefully sectioned blood orange
Rod and Donna sure are good cooks, but even better friends.
Thursday
Black and Gold Chili
With apologies to my friend Laura V., I've renamed a favorite dish of hers. She loved my chicken and black bean chili so much I dubbed it Chili Vinchesi. However, owing to the distinctive black and gold hue of the dish, I've temporarily renamed the dish in honor of the Steelers' return to the big game.
Black and Gold Chili:
Ingredients:
Bacon
Chicken Breast
Onion
Garlic
Dried Chilis: your favorite, based on heat tolerance
2 Cans black beans
1 Can corn
Some cumin, smoked paprika, tumeric, cayenne
Cilantro
Garnishes: cheese, yogurt, sour cream, salsa, crackers...
1. Saute 2-3 strips of bacon til crisp. Remove.
2. Cut up chicken breasts. Season well with salt and pepper and saute in bacon fat until cooked through. Remove.
3. Saute chopped onion in same pan. (Saute optional chopped green and/or red peppers if desired.)
4. Toast dried peppers in dry iron skillet. Remove to bowl. Cover with boiling water for 15 minutes.
5. Remove peppers. Open them up and remove the seeds. Place peppers in food processer with a couple of cloves of garlic, some salt and pepper, and enough of the soaking water to process it into a loose paste.
6. Return chicken to pan with onions. Season with about 2 tablespoons of cumin, a teaspoon each of paprika and turmeric (OK, the turmeric is optional, but it's good for your joints) and cayenne to taste.
7. Add the processed chili paste; stir to coat.
8. Add the drained and rinsed beans and corn. Add bacon.
9. Add water to cover and bring to a simmer. Simmer 'til thickened, 1-2 hours. Best made a day ahead. Unless you're Laura, garnish with chopped cilantro.
Black and Gold Chili:
Ingredients:
Bacon
Chicken Breast
Onion
Garlic
Dried Chilis: your favorite, based on heat tolerance
2 Cans black beans
1 Can corn
Some cumin, smoked paprika, tumeric, cayenne
Cilantro
Garnishes: cheese, yogurt, sour cream, salsa, crackers...
1. Saute 2-3 strips of bacon til crisp. Remove.
2. Cut up chicken breasts. Season well with salt and pepper and saute in bacon fat until cooked through. Remove.
3. Saute chopped onion in same pan. (Saute optional chopped green and/or red peppers if desired.)
4. Toast dried peppers in dry iron skillet. Remove to bowl. Cover with boiling water for 15 minutes.
5. Remove peppers. Open them up and remove the seeds. Place peppers in food processer with a couple of cloves of garlic, some salt and pepper, and enough of the soaking water to process it into a loose paste.
6. Return chicken to pan with onions. Season with about 2 tablespoons of cumin, a teaspoon each of paprika and turmeric (OK, the turmeric is optional, but it's good for your joints) and cayenne to taste.
7. Add the processed chili paste; stir to coat.
8. Add the drained and rinsed beans and corn. Add bacon.
9. Add water to cover and bring to a simmer. Simmer 'til thickened, 1-2 hours. Best made a day ahead. Unless you're Laura, garnish with chopped cilantro.
Conserving and Preserving, and duck and Goi An
I've had a busy morning.
Today is the last delivery of the season for our CSA.
As usually happens, there were leftover veggies, which, though we leave them out all night, technically become ours after 7 PM if not picked up.
For some reason, this week there were 4 additional boxes of veggies. That's a lot of veggies.
I'm going to bet (or hope) that our basement is cool enough to store all the apples, squash, potatoes, parsnips, and beets that I lugged down there this morning, rendering it a root cellar.
But nothing preserves food like cooking and freezing it, so I had at it this morning.
Knowing I was using the oven (to make duck confit, for cassoulet), I took the opportunity to prepare some beets as well.
I cleaned them and wrapped them in foil, threw in some oil, S and P, and a couple of cloves of garlic and placed two packages on a baking sheet.
I also roasted some potatoes.
I used the potatoes to make gnocchi.
I passed the peeled potatoes through a food mill, and mixed in just enough flour to make an easy-handling dough. I rolled the dough into snakes, and cut the snakes into 1" long gnocchi.
I froze the gnocchi on a baking sheet, then placed the frozen gnocchi into a freezer bag. I may make a gnocchi appetizer for Thanksgiving... we'll see. I know Susan's mother Elvira would greatly appreciate it. If I do, I'll either make a ragu or perhaps a sage cream sauce. Or perhaps I could make a sauce out of all the Kale that's now in my freezer, with bechamel maybe? Hmm... decisions.
I had pounds of Jurassic-looking kale. After cutting out the ribs and soaking it I cooked it in two big batches in our largest stockpot. It steamed mostly, with about a cup of water and some salt in the bottom of the pot. After it wilted I cooked it down a bit and now have 3 gallon bags in the freezer, joining corn, green beans, shredded beets (for rosti), sauteed greens....
The kale ribs joined the potato and beet skins in our composter. Next year they'll nourish the soil in our little backyard, perhaps helping us grow plump tomatoes and fragrant Thai basil, cilantro, and mint for my Goi An-- a Vietnamese cabbage salad that we've become addicted to. (Thankfully I have plenty of cabbage for that now!)
Goi An
For dressing, combine 1/4 cup of Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce with 1/4 cup of lime juice, a chopped shallot or two, a couple of tablespoons of brown sugar, and some grated ginger. Add some ground pepper and a teaspoon of sesame oil and mix. Add some chili flakes if you're feeling adventurous or out of control.
For salad, chop up a small head of cabbage. Add a grated carrot and some chopped cilantro, thai basil (or regular basil) and mint. Finish with some chopped roasted unsalted peanuts.
You can add shredded chicken meat if you like.
It's tasty. Addictive. And good for you.
Today is the last delivery of the season for our CSA.
As usually happens, there were leftover veggies, which, though we leave them out all night, technically become ours after 7 PM if not picked up.
For some reason, this week there were 4 additional boxes of veggies. That's a lot of veggies.
I'm going to bet (or hope) that our basement is cool enough to store all the apples, squash, potatoes, parsnips, and beets that I lugged down there this morning, rendering it a root cellar.
But nothing preserves food like cooking and freezing it, so I had at it this morning.
Knowing I was using the oven (to make duck confit, for cassoulet), I took the opportunity to prepare some beets as well.
I cleaned them and wrapped them in foil, threw in some oil, S and P, and a couple of cloves of garlic and placed two packages on a baking sheet.
I also roasted some potatoes.
I used the potatoes to make gnocchi.
I passed the peeled potatoes through a food mill, and mixed in just enough flour to make an easy-handling dough. I rolled the dough into snakes, and cut the snakes into 1" long gnocchi.
I froze the gnocchi on a baking sheet, then placed the frozen gnocchi into a freezer bag. I may make a gnocchi appetizer for Thanksgiving... we'll see. I know Susan's mother Elvira would greatly appreciate it. If I do, I'll either make a ragu or perhaps a sage cream sauce. Or perhaps I could make a sauce out of all the Kale that's now in my freezer, with bechamel maybe? Hmm... decisions.
I had pounds of Jurassic-looking kale. After cutting out the ribs and soaking it I cooked it in two big batches in our largest stockpot. It steamed mostly, with about a cup of water and some salt in the bottom of the pot. After it wilted I cooked it down a bit and now have 3 gallon bags in the freezer, joining corn, green beans, shredded beets (for rosti), sauteed greens....
The kale ribs joined the potato and beet skins in our composter. Next year they'll nourish the soil in our little backyard, perhaps helping us grow plump tomatoes and fragrant Thai basil, cilantro, and mint for my Goi An-- a Vietnamese cabbage salad that we've become addicted to. (Thankfully I have plenty of cabbage for that now!)
Goi An
For dressing, combine 1/4 cup of Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce with 1/4 cup of lime juice, a chopped shallot or two, a couple of tablespoons of brown sugar, and some grated ginger. Add some ground pepper and a teaspoon of sesame oil and mix. Add some chili flakes if you're feeling adventurous or out of control.
For salad, chop up a small head of cabbage. Add a grated carrot and some chopped cilantro, thai basil (or regular basil) and mint. Finish with some chopped roasted unsalted peanuts.
You can add shredded chicken meat if you like.
It's tasty. Addictive. And good for you.
Tuesday
Back in the Saddle
I have returned to serving food at one of the region's best restaurants.
I left this restaurant two years ago to take a position at the Carnegie Museum of Natural History. There, I assisted both the Marketing and Development departments in raising funds for, and promoting, the renovation of old Dinosaur Hall into arguably the world's finest dinosaur exhibit, Dinosaurs in Their Time. This was a $36 million capital campaign project.
I raised funds via approaching corporations and arguing for their commitment to our region's cultural health via "sponsaurship" of individual dinosaurs within the exhibit.
Then, two months before the exhibit opened, I acted as project manager for the public portion of the campaign, called Adopt-A-Bone. This program allowed people to log on to our dinosaur Web site, select a favorite dinosaur, and adopt individual dinosaur bones, ranging from $25 to $10,000, on behalf of themselves or others. All designated "adoptees" received an artful Certificate of Adoption and a permanent listing of their names within the exhibit.
My position ended with the opening of the exhibit. I enjoyed a couple of months off, which enabled me to test retirement early. (I'm going to need projects when I retire.) The restaurant's GM graciously agreed to welcome me back a week ago, and I am happy to be back. I retrained for two nights and began work officially last Sunday.
Serving is a tiring job and not for everyone. It can be lucrative, and the hours are more appealing to some than others. Some, I feel, get trapped in the position and this can lead to bitterness. I have always enjoyed it, but have also been grateful for my time off from it.
I have found that I have easily slipped back into being a waiter. I really don't think I've lost a step. I'm relatively organized-- serving at a busy restaurant requires much juggling, multi-tasking, and prioritizing-- and I certainly enjoy discussing food, drink and other topics with guests.
Of course, it requires some adjustment on the home front. I feel guilty that I'm less able to prepare tasty dinners for us. On Sunday I had to leave a wonderful brunch to go to work. But it just requires a little more planning, is all.
It is servile work, but I have to admit, I'm quite good at it. I genuinely enjoy helping people select a good meal, and perhaps entertaining them a bit in the bargain.
See you at the restaurant. Ask me for a wine recommendation. Get the scallops, followed by the lamb.
I left this restaurant two years ago to take a position at the Carnegie Museum of Natural History. There, I assisted both the Marketing and Development departments in raising funds for, and promoting, the renovation of old Dinosaur Hall into arguably the world's finest dinosaur exhibit, Dinosaurs in Their Time. This was a $36 million capital campaign project.
I raised funds via approaching corporations and arguing for their commitment to our region's cultural health via "sponsaurship" of individual dinosaurs within the exhibit.
Then, two months before the exhibit opened, I acted as project manager for the public portion of the campaign, called Adopt-A-Bone. This program allowed people to log on to our dinosaur Web site, select a favorite dinosaur, and adopt individual dinosaur bones, ranging from $25 to $10,000, on behalf of themselves or others. All designated "adoptees" received an artful Certificate of Adoption and a permanent listing of their names within the exhibit.
My position ended with the opening of the exhibit. I enjoyed a couple of months off, which enabled me to test retirement early. (I'm going to need projects when I retire.) The restaurant's GM graciously agreed to welcome me back a week ago, and I am happy to be back. I retrained for two nights and began work officially last Sunday.
Serving is a tiring job and not for everyone. It can be lucrative, and the hours are more appealing to some than others. Some, I feel, get trapped in the position and this can lead to bitterness. I have always enjoyed it, but have also been grateful for my time off from it.
I have found that I have easily slipped back into being a waiter. I really don't think I've lost a step. I'm relatively organized-- serving at a busy restaurant requires much juggling, multi-tasking, and prioritizing-- and I certainly enjoy discussing food, drink and other topics with guests.
Of course, it requires some adjustment on the home front. I feel guilty that I'm less able to prepare tasty dinners for us. On Sunday I had to leave a wonderful brunch to go to work. But it just requires a little more planning, is all.
It is servile work, but I have to admit, I'm quite good at it. I genuinely enjoy helping people select a good meal, and perhaps entertaining them a bit in the bargain.
See you at the restaurant. Ask me for a wine recommendation. Get the scallops, followed by the lamb.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)